Lisbon to Civitavecchia (Rome)

Lisbon, the capital of Portugal, is a city open to the sea and carefully planned with 18th-century elegance. Its founder is said to be the legendary Ulysses, but the theory of an original Phoenician settlement is probably more realistic. Known in Portugal as Lisboa, the city was inhabited by the Romans, Visigoths and, beginning in the 8th century, the Moors. Much of the 16th century was a period of great prosperity and overseas expansion for Portugal. Tragedy struck on All Saints’ Day in 1755 with a devastating earthquake that killed about 40,000 people. The destruction of Lisbon shocked the continent. As a result, the Baixa (lower city) emerged in a single phase of building, carried out in less than a decade by the royal minister, the Marques de Pombal. His carefully planned layout of a perfect neo-classical grid survived to this day and remains the heart of the city. Evidence of pre-quake Lisbon can still be seen in the Belém suburb and the old Moorish section of the Alfama that sprawls below the Castle of St. George.
Lisbon is a compact city on the banks of the Tagus River. Visitors find it easy to get around as many places of interest are in the vicinity of the central downtown area. There is a convenient bus and tram system and taxis are plentiful. Rossio Square, the heart of Lisbon since medieval times, is an ideal place to start exploring. After a fire destroyed parts of the historic neighborhood behind Rossio in 1988, many of the restored buildings emerged with modern interiors behind the original façades.
The city boasts a good many monuments and museums, such as the Jeronimos Monastery, Tower of Belém, the Royal Coach Museum and the Gulbenkian Museum. High above the Baixa is the Bairro Alto (upper city) with its teeming nightlife. The easiest way to connect between the two areas is via the public elevator designed by Gustave Eiffel.
Cruising up the Tagus River to the ship’s berth, you can already spot three of Lisbon’s famous landmarks: the Monument to the Discoveries, the Tower of Belém and the Statue of Christ, which welcomes visitors from its hilltop location high above Europe’s longest suspension bridge.

Located on the estuary of the Arade River, Portimao has made its living from fishing since pre-Romans times. Today a sprawling port and a major sardine-canning centre, the town is also a base for the construction industries generated by the tourist boom. Although summer is the busiest time of the year, the mild climate of the Algarve and many sunny winter days attract multinational tourists in all seasons, coming here to visit historical sites, playing golf, strolling along the river boulevard or exploring the many shopping opportunities. Stunning rock formations and warm seawaters make the beaches particularly alluring. The most beautiful on the entire coast is Praia da Rocha, the first one of several Algarve resort developments. Its wide expanse of sand is framed by jagged sea cliffs and the walls of an old fort that once protected the mouth of the Arade River. From Portimao, explorations can be made along the coast all the way to Cape St. Vincent, Europe’s most westerly point, and inland to Lagos and Silves, once the residence and capital of the Moorish kings.

More than a hundred watchtowers gaze out across the waves surrounding this ancient Andalusian city. Sprinkled with evocative cobbled side streets, you’ll explore 3,000 years’ worth of history, while stumbling across palm-tree lined plazas of shaded coffee sippers. Cadiz claims the mantle of Western Europe’s oldest city, and every piece of architecture – and every wrong turn – offers a chance to discover fascinating new tales. Founded by the Phoenicians in 1100BC, Christopher Columbus used the city as a base for his exploratory, map-defining voyages of 1493 and 1502.

The port grew in importance and wealth as Cadiz’s strategic location close to Africa’s northern tip helped it blossom into a centre for New World trade. Catedral de Cádiz, is a display of the city’s wealth and importance, looming spectacularly over the Atlantic’s waves, with cawing seagulls sweeping between its twin bell towers. Inside, treasures from the city’s trading exploits in the West Indies and beyond – which helped fuel the growth of this historically prosperous city – are on display. Enveloped by ocean on almost every side, Cadiz has something of an island feel, and you can cool off from southern Spain’s unrelenting sunshine on the sweeping golden sand beach of Playa Victoria. The two towers of the new El Puente de la Constitución de 1812 mark a contemporary landmark in this most ancient of cities, in the form of a spectacular new road bridge. Torre Tavira, meanwhile, is the most famous of Cadiz’s army of watchtowers, and the highest point in the city. Reach the top for a view of the ocean fringing the city’s expanse, and to learn about the towers – constructed so trading merchants could survey the harbour from their lavish homes. The Central Market is a chaotic place of bartering, where flashing knives dissect fresh fish. Stop in at the orbiting bars to enjoy tapas, freshly prepared with the market’s produce.

Gibraltar is the famous promontory located at the western entrance of the Mediterranean, with Spain to the north and, across the Straits, Morocco to the south. The Straits, a channel 36 miles long that connects the Atlantic with the Mediterranean, are 27 miles wide at the west end, 8 miles at their narrowest and 15 miles between Gibraltar and Almina Point near Ceuta. Africa is clearly visible on a fine day. Gibraltar’s airport is known for its unusual runway that bisects the two-mile-long narrow isthmus linking the colony geographically to mainland Spain.

Situated on Spain’s Costa del Sol, Malaga is the region’s capital and a popular holiday destination. The city is known as the birthplace of Pablo Picasso and for the sweet Malaga dessert wines that come from the hilly vineyards just outside of town. Other points of interest include impressive Gothic architecture, the remains of a Moorish castle and several interesting museums. A pleasant town to explore, Malaga also serves as a popular starting point for trips to Granada and resorts along the Costa del Sol. Granada and the famed Alhambra are the region’s most outstanding attractions. Here, magnificent Moorish palaces and fortifications contrast sharply with Christian churches from Spain’s significant era of the 1492 Reconquest, in which King Ferdinand put an end to eight centuries of Moorish rule. Other worthwhile destinations from Malaga include such well-known resorts as Marbella and the white village of Mijas, located on the hillside above the coastal towns of Torremolinos and Fuengirola.

On the crossroads of mighty cultures, this Murcian port has endless ancient stories to share. A valuable natural harbour attracted many civilisations to this sun-bathed, southeasterly setting – following its foundation by the Carthaginians in 227 BC. Blending the imprints left by countless cultures on this global junction, the presence of everyone from the Vandals to the Phoenicians and Moors can be felt as you explore, walking between ruins and celebrated modernist architecture along Calle Mayor. Cartagena is crowned by the soaring Castillo de la Concepcion – rise to the stout castle aboard a panoramic lift. Inside, look through reams of archaeological treasures, or admire the rolling views down over the port and across the waters. Watch out for the electric blue peacocks who strut flamboyantly. Cartagena’s emergence as a visitor destination coincided with a stunning discovery in 1988 – the bowl of a gloriously preserved Roman Theatre. Enter to sit among the grandiose ancient venue, so evocative, you can’t help but imagine the historic performances that have graced its stage. Wander the breezy waterfront, looking across the narrow strait towards Africa’s distant haze, and spotting gleaming warships. Cartagena’s perfect harbour means it has been one of Spain’s oldest strategic navy positions since the 16th century. Settle to enjoy the joys of tapas in lively bars – sampling crisped paella, squid and honeyed-aubergine. Easter’s Semana Santa festivities are typically lively here, as hooded processions, lavish floats and sombre fiery displays roll through the streets.

Valencia is Spain’s third largest city and capital of the region. It was originally founded by the Romans on the banks of the river Turia in 138 BC. In 711 AD the Moors arrived and converted the area into a rich agricultural and industrial center, establishing ceramics, paper, silk and leather industries. Muslim rule was briefly interrupted in 1094 by the legendary Castillian knight, El Cid. Valencia boomed in the 15th and 16th centuries, becoming one of the strongest Mediterranean trading centers.
Valencia is a vibrant, friendly and chaotic city that boasts an outstanding fine arts museum and one of the most exciting nightlife scenes in Spain. The city center is about 3 miles inland from the coast. Plaza del Ayuntamiento marks the center of Valencia. Surrounded by flower stalls, it is also home to the town hall and the main post office. The cathedral was begun in the 13th century and finished in 1482. It has many architectural styles, including Gothic, Baroque and Romanesque. The octagonal bell-tower, called Miguelete, is one of the city’s landmarks. The small cathedral museum boasts a tabernacle made from 550 pounds of gold, silver, platinum, emeralds and sapphires. It also purports to be the home of the Holy Grail, the cup used by Christ at the Last Supper.
West of the cathedral is the oldest part of the city, known as El Carme. Situated across the river in the Jardines del Real is the Museo de Bellas Artes, the Fine Arts Museum. Works include those by El Greco, Goya and Velázquez.

The infinite variety of street life, the nooks and crannies of the medieval Barri Gòtic, the ceramic tile and stained glass of Art Nouveau facades, the art and music, the throb of street life, the food (ah, the food!)—one way or another, Barcelona will find a way to get your full attention. The capital of Catalonia is a banquet for the senses, with its beguiling mix of ancient and modern architecture, tempting cafés and markets, and sun-drenched Mediterranean beaches. A stroll along La Rambla and through waterfront Barceloneta, as well as a tour of Gaudí’s majestic Sagrada Famíliaand his other unique creations, are part of a visit to Spain’s second-largest city. Modern art museums and chic shops call for attention, too. Barcelona’s vibe stays lively well into the night, when you can linger over regional wine and cuisine at buzzing tapas bars.

The Balearics are comprised of 16 islands; the three principal ones are Mallorca, Ibiza and Minorca. Carthaginians, Romans, Vandals and Arabs have invaded these islands over the centuries. Ruins show evidence of the prehistoric Talayot civilization, a megalithic culture that flourished here between 1500 BC and the Roman conquest. Today the islands are besieged by invaders of a different sort – hordes of tourists.
Lying 60 miles (97 km) off the Spanish mainland, the islands’ lush and rugged landscape combined with an extremely mild, sunny climate proves irresistible, especially to northern Europeans. As a result, the Balearics boast cosmopolitan resorts with lively nightlife and plenty of sports activities.
Mallorca (also spelled Majorca) is the largest of the islands, with an area of more than 1,400 square miles (3626 sq.km). The scenery is magnificent, with cliffs along indented shorelines jutting out of the sea and mountain ranges sheltering the plains from harsh sea breezes. The fertile plain in the centre is covered with almond and fig trees plus olive groves with some trees more than 1,000 years old. Tall pines, junipers and oaks line the mountain slopes.
Palma de Mallorca is the capital of the archipelago. A cosmopolitan city with sophisticated shops and restaurants, it also offers buildings of spectacular Moorish and Gothic architecture.
In the western part of Mallorca, nestled into the mountains, lies the village of Valldemosa. It is known for its Carthusian Monastery where Frédéric Chopin and George Sand spent the winter of 1838-39.

The serene sea approach to Cagliari is an exquisitely beautiful way to first lay eyes on the city’s mesmerising interplay of colour, spires and domed churches. Sat on Sardinia’s south coast, Cagliari is the island’s largest city, and a sun-blessed escape of beaches, architecture and Mediterranean food – where stress evaporates on contact. That first sight of Cagliari’s mosaic of architecture reveals much about the island’s history, and is a living document of the civilisations and influences that have passed through. Combining Byzantine churches with crumbling Roman ruins and Pisan towers, it’s an elegant, beguiling place to explore. Usher in the morning with a short, sharp espresso hit, before wandering along to San Benedetto market’s bustle, crammed full of overflowing heaps of local produce. Taste crisp, freshly-baked bread, thin shavings of sheep’s cheese, and ripe red strawberries, as you wander amid the market’s melody of good-natured bartering. The Castello quarter’s tight, flower-draped streets and salmon-hued brick buildings incline up above the Med’s softly lapping waves. Climb Bastione di Saint Remy staircase to Terrazza Umberto’s views of the turquoise Gulf of Angels. Next, Cathedral of Santa Maria awaits, with its marbled interiors, elaborate side chapels and intricately decorated crypt. Once you’ve unravelled Cagliari’s historical tapestry, Poetto Beach invites you to find a spot on almost five miles of uninterrupted sand, met by a dazzling expanse of turquoise water. On a hot summer’s day, soak up some sun before saluting the sunset with an ice cold Spritz at a beachside bar. Spaghetti with salted bottarga and artichokes will keep the good times rolling, perfectly accompanied by a glass of ruby-coloured Cannonau wine.

Tunisia’s capital lies at the western end of the shallow Lake Tunis, which opens to the sea at La Goulette. This is the first of a string of beach suburbs that stretches away to the north; it is here that the city’s port is located. This coastal area includes the ruins of ancient Carthage and the picturesque suburb of Sidi Bou Said, places that attract more visitors than Tunis itself. As far as capital cities go, Tunis has an easy-going, unhurried air about it. View less

It is a very liberal city by Islamic standards and certainly leading the way in Western trends for the rest of the country. In Tunisia, the struggle for independence didn’t take the violent course that it did in Algeria. Ruler Ahmed Bey, who governed from 1837 to 1855, encouraged Westernization and brought in military and other advisors to this end. In 1861, during the reign of Mohammed Sadiq, a constitution – the first in the Arab world – was proclaimed. Until the time of the French protectorate, the medina was very much the center of things. Then, under the French influence, the ville nouvelle (new city) emerged with its major banks, department stores, and administrative services. The main focus of ville nouvelle is the wide, tree-lined Avenue Habib Bourguiba. At its western end, this major thoroughfare becomes the Avenue de France, terminating in the Place de la Victoire and the entrance to the medina.

Surrounded by glowing turquoise waters and rugged coastline, Trapani invites you to explore western Sicily’s ruins, intense flavours, and sun-soaked leisure pursuits. Built on salt and tuna exports, Trapani is experiencing a renaissance, having been lovingly spruced up as a sailing capital, and an international airport bringing in visitors from far and wide. The town looks out over the Egadi Islands, gazing west to witness some of Siciliy’s most evocative sunset displays. View less

Start exploring Trapani from its historic core, a dense network of alleys hosting a collection of small shops, restaurants and wine bars. You’ll encounter the Cathedral of San Lorenzo – where colourful artworks are spread below sweeping arches and a beautiful domed roof. Sicily feels like an island on the cusp of continents, and Trapani practically has one foot in Africa, as you soak in its pretty whitewash houses and fusion of foods and arts. Discover the Ancient Greek influence by venturing to rich archaeological sites nearby, like Selinus and Segesta, where the treasures from the past have been unearthed and displayed. Pyramids of white salt rise up at the Riserva Naturale Saline di Trapani e Paceco. These salt marshes and windmills are a symbol of Trapani, and although sea salt production is much less important today, the small white hills remain a Trapani landmark. Look out for the pink flamingos wading in the salt pans below. For beach days, the Egadi Islands can be easily reached from Trapani – Favignana is the largest and most popular.

The region of Campania was home to Greeks settlers some 300 years before Rome was founded. Pompeii, too, was a Greek town before being conquered by the Romans during the 5th century BC. It was under the Romans that Pompeii flourished and grew prosperous. When Mount Vesuvius erupted in 79 AD, the population of 20,000 was wiped out, but dozens of buildings were preserved under layers of cinder more than 20 feet deep. The most important finds from Pompeii are displayed in Naples’ National Archaeological Museum. A visit here will no doubt enhance a visit to ancient Pompeii.

All roads lead to Rome, and with good reason – this city is one of the world’s most thrilling, offering unmatched history along every street. An evocative, inspiring and utterly artistic capital of unrivalled cultural impact, Rome is a city of back-to-back landmarks, which will take you on an exhilarating journey through the ages. This may be one of the world’s oldest cities, but it’s well and truly lived in. The ruins are punctuated with murmuring cafes, and the outdoor seating of restaurants sprawls out across piazzas, enticing you to sample tangles of creamy pasta and crispy pizzas. Rome’s incredible Roman Forum is littered with the ruins of its ancient administrations, which have stood firm for 2,000 years, since the times when the area was the centre of the Western world. Few sites are more simultaneously beautiful and haunting than that of the storied Colosseum, which looms deep into Rome’s rich blue sky. Take a tour to learn details of the grisly goings-on within. The best way to experience Rome is to wander its streets, gelato in hand. There is a lot to see here – whether it’s the domed spectacle of the Pantheon, or the elaborate flowing waters and artistry of the Trevi Fountain. Vatican City is an astonishing, colossal display of Catholic grandeur, while the Spanish Steps – crowned by the Trinità dei Monti church – offer a beautiful spot to gather and soak up the lively atmosphere of this humming city. With so much on the to-do list, you’ll relish the breaks you take, enjoying simple pleasures like a strong espresso, or fresh pasta with tomato sauce and ripped basil.