Eastern Caribbean – St Marteen to Bridgetown

Offering an island bounty of electric-blue Caribbean Sea waters, sensational scuba diving, and elevated viewpoints, Philipsburg revels in Caribbean beauty. St. Maarten is an unusual island of dual personality – partitioned into French and Dutch sides. Discovered by Christopher Columbus on his second journey to the Americas in 1493. A truce was eventually brokered in 1648, sharing the island between the French and Dutch – an arrangement that endures today. View less A Caribbean mirage of soft sand beaches and perfect snorkelling and scuba diving opportunities – arrive on the south of this beautiful island at the Dutch side’s capital, Philipsburg. Squeezed between the bay and the Great Salt Pond, the town offers waterfront strolls in the gentle breeze, duty-free bargains, and plenty of room to sit and drink in the dazzling sea views. Clear, turquoise waters hold underwater worlds of colourful corals and fish, while glorious beaches of typical Caribbean beauty invite you to sprawl out beside the tempting shallow waters. Look out to see occasional jet skis skirting the waters, as you recline on sand flanked by lush vegetation on both sides. Tear into the fresh local produce and taste the island’s sensational seafood – from lobster to red snapper and conch cocktails. Don’t miss the opportunity to try out the island’s favourite tipple, either – guavaberry rum. Beautiful green peaks offer stunning hikes, amid the rich tangle of jungle scenery. Maho Beach may also be on the radar – the tranquillity of this small beach is regularly interrupted by the deafening roar of jet engines, as Princess Juliana International Airport’s runway comes perilously close to the sands. Huge planes skim just above the beach before touching down, and the blasts of departing jet engines blow violent gales out towards the waters.

Like so many of the islands in the Caribbean, 2017’s double whammy of hurricanes Irma and Maria devastated much of St. John. However, as relief funds get funnelled into rebuilding, normality is gradually being restored, and St. John version 2.0 is emerging – bolder, brighter and better. St. John’s small size might just give it the edge over other desert islands. View less The US purchased the tiny landmass (at just nine miles long, the island is the smallest of the three American Virgin Islands) from the West India and Guinea Company in 1917 and it remains under US govern to this day. Historically speaking however St. John is Danish, who colonised it for almost 250 years before its sale to America. The Virgin Island Nation park covers almost two-thirds the island, meaning visually St. John is stunning, and will remain that way for generations to come. This ‘gift’ to the world comes thanks to Laurence Rockefeller who in 1956 gave the 5,000 acres of lush forest to the people of the island, with the caveat that it become a national park. Thus, velvety green hills slope into picture perfect white sand beaches, which are ringed by turquoise seas. One very definite winner of the tourism hiatus since 2017 has been the marine wildlife. Underwater life was barely affected by the storms and the subsequent lack of tourism has allowed the eco-systems to propagate. The island’s abundant coral reefs were not overly affected by the storms and today the waters are teeming with sea turtles, reef sharks and sting rays.

Cherry red roofs, yacht-sprinkled bays and a sophisticated French flavour all add to the gorgeous Caribbean allure of Gustavia. The island’s capital rolls around a horseshoe-shaped harbour, where gleaming yachts hover and fancy boutiques, bars and restaurants fizz with life and clinking cutlery. Head up to red and white Gustavia Lighthouse to look down over the revered waters, which attract many a celebrity guest and diving enthusiast to these shores. View less Christopher Columbus was the first European to discover this volcanic island in 1493, giving it the name St Barthelemy in honour of his younger brother. The island has a unique history as a Swedish colony, following a deal with the French King Louis XVI to exchange the island with Sweden for better trading rights. It was returned to French control in 1878 and is now a French Overseas Collectivity. Learn more of the Swedish legacy at Fort Karl – which sits on a 29-metre-high hill above Shell Beach. The fort now lies in ruins, but you’ll meet wandering iguanas, and the views down of sweeping sea and emerald coastline are some of the island’s finest. Down below, a delightful spread of tiny pebbles and shell fragments are scattered like confetti and lapped by crystal-clear water. A little exploration uncovers countless other glorious beaches and natural wonders. Colombier Beach is a little out of the way but cradles silky-smooth sands and typically turquoise waters. If you have chance, find somewhere to settle and sip fruity rum cocktails as the sunset flares across the waves.

To fully appreciate the island’s unspoiled beauty, a trip into the interior is a must. A good part of Dominica’s mountainous terrain is covered with dense evergreen rain forest, where rare plants and animals are still found that have long been extinct on neighboring islands. The Smithsonian Institute called the island a giant plant laboratory, unchanged for 10,000 years. Numerous hot springs bear witness to continuing volcanic activity. Dominica is truly a place to discover nature in all her splendor. But it is not an island for those looking for white sand beaches. Around the mouth of rivers and in sheltered bays, the beaches are pebbly and of dark color.

A faint aroma of cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves and other spices lingers over Grenada’s fertile lands. Often called the “Spice Island”, Grenada has a lot more to offer than just spices. St. George’s, the picturesque, small capital with terraces of pale, colour-washed houses and cheerful red roofs, has long enjoyed the reputation of having the prettiest harbour in the Caribbean. Established in 1705 by French settlers, who called it Fort Royal, much of the town’s present-day charm results from the blend of two colonial cultures with a Caribbean atmosphere. The colonial heritage is reflected in remaining 18th-century French provincial houses and fine examples of English Georgian architecture. Around the island, the scenery is equally appealing: the mountainous interior rises from a generally rugged coast, which in part is blessed with dazzling white beaches. Due to its compact size, Grenada can be easily explored, even on just a one-day visit.

Martinique is well known as France’s favoured Caribbean isle, but it is the little commune of Trois Ilets where the two cultures really mesh together. Found directly opposite the busy capital Fort de France, Trois Ilets retains its historic culture – much of it due to Marie Josèphe Rose Tascher de la Pagerie, aka Empress Josephine of France aka Mrs Napoleon Bonaparte. In fact, so proud are the Martiniquais of their famous daughter that they have sanctified her childhood sugar plantation home. View less

La Pagerie is a fascinating museum housing rich colonial artefacts, including some of Napoleon’s rather risqué love letters to his future wife. Trois Ilets was once an important French colony, and as such played an active role in the slave trade. A trip to the Savane des Esclaves will have you learning of the plight of Neg Marrons – and others like him – slaves who fled the plantations to live alone in the hinterland. Visit the reconstruction of a typical rural shack where Neg and others managed to survive by living off the land and by their wits. Like many Caribbean villages, life is centred around the church square. Colourful wooden houses with locally thrown pottery tile rooves flank the typical creole village, while the church itself (where Empress Josephine was baptised) takes pride of place. In fact, so important is pottery to the local culture that the entire village referred to as “Le village de la poterie” in the 18th century. Unsurprisingly though, the islands natural beauty takes a front seat. Many world class beaches are found here including the lovely l’Anse a l’Ane, and the peninsula of Pointe du Bout (literally End Point). This latter place is where you’ll find most of the seaside fun. Think Hobbie-Cats, kayaking, windsurfing and jet skiing for island exploration – the Genipa Mangrove at the end of the island begs discovery if you like to take to the waterways. If your idea of heaven involves the more simple pleasures of reading and strolling under the shade of the palms, then look no further.

Kingstown is the capital of Saint Vincent and the Grenadines. The port city is known for its Botanical Gardens, founded in 1765 and home to tropical plants and aviaries.

Bridgetown, the captivating capital of Barbados, combines faded colonial history, captivating tradition, and vivid white beaches plucked directly from your richest imagination of Caribbean perfection. Recently listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site, thanks to its beautifully preserved colonial architecture, Bridgetown’s mask of modernity covers a core of complex history and fascinating culture. Sherbet coloured buildings line up to overlook the waterfront of the Constitution River at the ‘The Careenage’ – where gleaming ships bob on the blue water, and peaceful strolls along a wooden boardwalk await. Stop for a sobering moment at the commemorative plaque honouring the people traded at this spot, when Bridgetown was the British Empire’s most important harbour, and first stop on the Transatlantic Slave Trade crossing. Just five minutes’ stroll from here is Carlisle Bay – a postcard-perfect place where you’ll find crystal-clear, turquoise seawater glowing in the Caribbean sun, and a mile of soft white powder sand. A treasure trove for divers, the shipwrecks scattered below the shallow water’s waves are now inhabited by turtles and swirling, rainbow-coloured tropical fish. Head to the backstreets, where street food vendors serve up spicy chicken soup, barbecued pigtails and thirst-quenching coconut water. There are bargains aplenty to be had on Broad Street, where duty-free malls and souvenir stalls cram together, vying for your attention. Roebuck Street is the spot where one of the Caribbean’s favourite drinks, rum, was discovered – having been created here from the by-products of the island’s booming sugarcane trade. Nowadays, it’s lined with bars splashing every variety of the deliciously spicy dark libation imaginable into glasses. For a touch more culture, visit one of the oldest synagogues in The Americas – Nidhe Israel Synagogue, which was built in 1654. The adjoining museum tells the story of Barbados’ Jewish immigrants, who were instrumental in the island’s development.