Canary Islands, Madeira & Spains Southern Coast

Las Palmas is a large Spanish city, which just happens to be on the island of Gran Canaria. That fact adds the exotic, slightly African and international flavor to the place. It played an important part in the early exploration and exploitation of Africa and the New World, some of which is recounted in the Casa de Colon Museum. Columbus may have slept there, but it was never his house. It was actually the mansion of early governors. Other museums of note are the Museo Canaria with a number of Cro Magnon skulls, and the fascinating Elder Museum of Science and Technology. For shopping, strolling and general local interest, head to La Vegueta, the oldest quarter and a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the adjacent Triana high street shopping district. Most visitors are here for the beaches, and the municipal Playa de Las Canteras is a long, clean and safe option if that is your intention. The Canaria in the name of the islands refers to the indigenous Presa Canaria breed of dogs, which are large, strong and made quite an impression on the earliest Spanish visitors.

San Sebastián de La Gomera is the capital of La Gomera, one of Spain’s Canary Islands. The Church of the Assumption has a mural depicting an 18th-century battle, and a museum with religious artwork dating from the 16th century. Nearby, La Gomera Archaeological Museum traces the island’s indigenous cultures through artifacts and scale models. South is the Torre del Conde, a medieval fortification set in a lush park.

The smallest and westernmost of the Canary Islands, Hierro is a rugged, windswept place believed in Columbus’s day to be the very western edge of the world. Its picturesque, whitewashed capital, Valverde, is unusually located high in the mountains some distance from the sea, and home to just 2,000 souls. The volcanic island was designated a UNESCO biosphere reserve in 2000, and photographers delight in dramatic sights like the Faro de Orchilla lighthouse, the great natural stone arch of the Roque de la Bonanza and the bizarre, wind-twisted juniper trees set against stony slopes. The Canarian artist Cesar Manrique created a spectacular viewpoint and restaurant overlooking the dramatic El Golfo valley atop kilometer-high cliffs.

Lovely La Palma has earned itself two well-deserved nicknames: Isla Bonita (Pretty Island) and Isla Verde (Green Island). Although there are relatively few beaches La Palma has a number of other appealing attractions. The island’s capital city, Santa Cruz de la Palma, boasts a handsome 16th-century City Hall as well as a number of colonial-style homes. There is also an interesting maritime museum housed in a life-size replica of Christopher Columbus’ Santa Maria. Caldera de Taburiente, a massive volcanic crater, stands sentry in the middle of the island. The last of La Palma’s original inhabitants, the Guanche, held out in the crater until they were finally defeated by the Spaniards in 1492 – the area is now a National Park.

The old town is a treasury of 16th and 17th century buildings, and not just churches. Do go inside the fortified-looking Iglesia del Salvador, however, to see its ornate, Islamic-style Mudejar ceiling, one of the best in the islands. A short way outside town is the Sanctuary of the Virgin of the Snows, one of the most important sites on the island. The waterfront is a good place to find ancient houses with elaborate iron balconies, many now converted to restaurants and shops. Many visitors tour the island’s dormant volcanoes, or the odd, erosion caldera called La Cumbrecita, a UNESCO Biosphere Site. An excursion to the village of Mazo rewards with a fine island museum containing examples of local handicrafts and especially the fabulous indigenous embroidery. Just beyond the museum is a handicrafts school, an excellent place to acquire a handcrafted souvenir of your Canary Islands adventure.

The old town is a treasury of 16th and 17th century buildings, and not just churches. Do go inside the fortified-looking Iglesia del Salvador, however, to see its ornate, Islamic-style Mudejar ceiling, one of the best in the islands. A short way outside town is the Sanctuary of the Virgin of the Snows, one of the most important sites on the island. The waterfront is a good place to find ancient houses with elaborate iron balconies, many now converted to restaurants and shops. Many visitors tour the island’s dormant volcanoes, or the odd, erosion caldera called La Cumbrecita, a UNESCO Biosphere Site. An excursion to the village of Mazo rewards with a fine island museum containing examples of local handicrafts and especially the fabulous indigenous embroidery. Just beyond the museum is a handicrafts school, an excellent place to acquire a handcrafted souvenir of your Canary Islands adventure.

The Madeira Archipelago, consisting of the islands Madeira, Porto Santo and Desertas, is situated in the Atlantic, about 400 miles from the African coast and 560 miles from Lisbon. Discovered by the Portuguese in 1419, Madeira, the largest of the islands, became of great importance to Portugal for its sugar production and later on for the cultivation of wine. The unusually temperate oceanic climate and extraordinary scenery had Northern Europeans flocking to Madeira as early as the 18th century to spend the winter months. The winning combination of high, rocky peaks, steep green ravines and waterfalls in the interior, with the flowering charm of Funchal still attracts nearly half a million visitors each year.

The Madeira Archipelago, consisting of the islands Madeira, Porto Santo and Desertas, is situated in the Atlantic, about 400 miles from the African coast and 560 miles from Lisbon. Discovered by the Portuguese in 1419, Madeira, the largest of the islands, became of great importance to Portugal for its sugar production and later on for the cultivation of wine. The unusually temperate oceanic climate and extraordinary scenery had Northern Europeans flocking to Madeira as early as the 18th century to spend the winter months. The winning combination of high, rocky peaks, steep green ravines and waterfalls in the interior, with the flowering charm of Funchal still attracts nearly half a million visitors each year.

Situated just across the narrow Strait of Gibraltar from Europe, Tangier has long comprised a hybrid culture that is nearly as European as it is African. Standing atop Cap Spartel, one can gaze down on the place where the Atlantic meets the Mediterranean. The “Hollywood” district where the foreign embassies have traditionally been located reflects the European influence. But ascending the hill above the waterfront, one enters the narrow, winding alleys of the Kasbah, the city’s oldest, most Moroccan section. Down the coast, nearby Tetouan retains a nearly untouched walled medina, with sections originally occupied by Andalusian, Berber and Jewish populations. It is small enough that visitors can explore it without risking becoming lost, making it a perfect choice as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

To taste the true flavor of this ancient port city, one should stroll its seaside promenade, pausing to rest beneath the huge banyan trees. The narrow, winding streets of the old town fan out from the port, leading you to sunny, palm-lined plazas. Visit the Catedral Nueva (New Cathedral), begun in the early 1800s but not completed for 116 years. Its dramatic, golden dome rises over a striking interior. For those who enjoy people-watching as much as sightseeing, the seafood restaurants along the eastern edge of the port provide the ideal setting.

The commercial center of northern Portugal and hub of the port wine trade, Porto is a gracious, cosmopolitan city noted for its 12th century cathedral and medieval churches, picturesque narrow streets and wine lodges at Vila Nova de Gaia. It is clustered on hills overlooking a river, and is a northern European style city with granite church towers, narrow streets and hidden Baroque treasures.

The great period of “the Discoveries” accounted for phenomenal wealth brought back from India, Africa and Brazil by the great Portuguese navigators. Gold, jewels, ivory, porcelain and spices helped finance grand new buildings and impressive monuments in Lisbon, the country’s capital city. As you sail up the Tagus River, be on deck to admire Lisbon’s panorama and see some of the great monuments lining the river. Lisbon is one of Europe’s smallest capital cities but considered by many visitors to be one of the most likeable. Spread over a string of seven hills, the city offers a variety of faces, including a refreshing no-frills simplicity reflected in the people as they go unhurriedly through their day enjoying a hearty and delicious cuisine accompanied by the country’s excellent wines.

With Spain to the north and Morocco to the south, Gibraltar is the famous promontory dominating the narrow entrance to the Mediterranean. Its position led to its seizure by the Moors in 711 as a prelude to the conquest of Spain. The Moorish influence includes the name Gibraltar, a corruption of “Jebel Tariq” (Tariq’s Mountain), named after the Moorish commander Tariq who built the first fortification. In ancient times Gibraltar was regarded as one of the two Pillars of Hercules, which marked the western limits of the known world. Known commonly as “The Rock,” Gibraltar is full of natural caves and manmade tunnels. The Rock itself, composed of limestone and gray marble, is geographically part of the Iberian Peninsula. Politically, the British have controlled Gibraltar for over two centuries. This tiny self-governing British Colony welcomes you to enjoy its historical sites, magnificent views, beautiful beaches and duty free shops.

Situated just across the narrow Strait of Gibraltar from Europe, Tangier has long comprised a hybrid culture that is nearly as European as it is African. Standing atop Cap Spartel, one can gaze down on the place where the Atlantic meets the Mediterranean. The “Hollywood” district where the foreign embassies have traditionally been located reflects the European influence. But ascending the hill above the waterfront, one enters the narrow, winding alleys of the Kasbah, the city’s oldest, most Moroccan section. Down the coast, nearby Tetouan retains a nearly untouched walled medina, with sections originally occupied by Andalusian, Berber and Jewish populations. It is small enough that visitors can explore it without risking becoming lost, making it a perfect choice as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Almeria is a seaside city in Andalucia in the province of the same name. The picturesque town is dominated by the hilltop Alcazaba fortress, originally built by the Caliph of Cordoba during the Moorish occupation and later expanded by Christian rulers. The cathedral dates from 1524, and replaces an earlier one lost in an earthquake in 1522. Its fortress-like structure bespeaks the continuing raids of pirates from North Africa at that time. Enjoy the town, the smaller villages of Mojacar or Roquetas del Mar, and the rugged coast of the Cabo de Gata.

This gracious provincial capital lies at the heart of the popular Costa Blanca resort region. Alicante has been a fashionable winter retreat for many years, thanks to its mild climate, swaying palms and beautiful beaches. Sun-seekers from throughout Europe, along with Algerian and Senegalese immigrants, combine to create a truly cosmopolitan air. The Castillo Santa Barbara looms above, adding to the romantic ambience. Take a stroll on the broad Explanada de Espana, the inviting promenade along the harbor, or browse through the many shops on Calle Mayor.

Valencia is located in the middle of Europe’s most densely developed agricultural region. Originally a Greek settlement, the town was taken over by Romans in 138 BC and turned into a retirement town for old soldiers. The Moors controlled the land for 500 years, and this fertile plain, which today yields three to four crops, was considered to be heaven on earth. El Cid conquered Valencia for Spain in 1094, but it fell back into Moorish hands after his death. Incorporated into Spain in the 15th century, Valencia remains the nation’s breadbasket.

Barcelona, the capital of Catalonia, is said to have been founded by the Phoenicians, and was once the rival of the powerful states of Venice and Genoa for control of the Mediterranean trade. Today, it is Spain’s second largest city and has long rivaled, even surpassed Madrid in industry and commerce. The medieval atmosphere of the Gothic Quarter and the elegant boulevards combine to make the city one of Europe’s most beautiful. Barcelona’s active cultural life and heritage brought forth such greats as the architect Antonio Gaudi, the painter Joan Miro, and Pablo Picasso, who spent his formative years here. Other famous native Catalan artists include cellist Pau Casals, surrealist Salvador Dali, and opera singers Montserrat Caballe and Josep Carreras. Barcelona accomplished a long-cherished goal with the opportunity to host the Olympics in 1992. This big event prompted a massive building program and created a focal point of the world’s attention.